We're really doing it all today - fuel air and spark!
Here's the fuel part having dealt with the sparks below - a fuel pressure gauge, it T's off the metering unit (and that union was damn expensive - £25!) - at the moment it's a lash up, I wasn't going to leave it permanently in the car but I may change my mind!
And the other end is just gaffer taped through the quarterlight! The gauge was an El Cheapo and not being damped in any way is hard to read - if I do go permanent I'll need to find a better one more in keeping with the rest of the instruments - I've seen industrial glycerin filled ones that look ideal but are expensive. Also, with my history of fuel in the cabin I will go for some armoured hose!
A quick change round of the pumps shows me that the original pump (the one that draws over 5 amps) is in fact kicking out the ideal pressure - between 100 and 110 PSI (the needle moves about a bit but between the right numbers!).
So, it may draw an amp more than the spare but at least it pumps enough to run the car properly. This is the first time connected to with the helper pump and cooling coil. I now need to do a bit of sustained running with it like this and ensure we don't get cavitation again.
I could hack about this pump and the spare to put the high pumping of this one with the low current draw of the spare's motor but I am reluctant to do this as I could end up screwing up both! One for me to ponder.
And the other end is just gaffer taped through the quarterlight! The gauge was an El Cheapo and not being damped in any way is hard to read - if I do go permanent I'll need to find a better one more in keeping with the rest of the instruments - I've seen industrial glycerin filled ones that look ideal but are expensive. Also, with my history of fuel in the cabin I will go for some armoured hose!
A quick change round of the pumps shows me that the original pump (the one that draws over 5 amps) is in fact kicking out the ideal pressure - between 100 and 110 PSI (the needle moves about a bit but between the right numbers!).
So, it may draw an amp more than the spare but at least it pumps enough to run the car properly. This is the first time connected to with the helper pump and cooling coil. I now need to do a bit of sustained running with it like this and ensure we don't get cavitation again.
I could hack about this pump and the spare to put the high pumping of this one with the low current draw of the spare's motor but I am reluctant to do this as I could end up screwing up both! One for me to ponder.
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